Published by George & Peter,
Tommy Levescy <firstname.lastname@example.org>
TheBuildRc.com sent me these two sworder outriggers for free to test and review and give a honest review on these boats, just part of the products that they carry. When I received these boats I was astonished by the craftsmanship and quality of these boats. They are full fiberglass hull with solid carbon rod boom tubes and they have a really nice laser cut wood motor mount and radio gear tray that is already setup to accept almost any standard size servo. These boats also come with all machined aluminum hardware that is the best I have seen come from China. They are very light weight but very solid and rtr they both ended up almost 1/2lb lighter then the boat I currently race. Which not only made me excited, but made me want to strive to make these two boats run as fast as possible.
Now there was some modifications I had to do. I had to add wider ride pads onto the bottom of the sponsons due to the stock ride surfaces being too narrow. I honed the strut to a larger diameter to allow a .187" or 4.76mm flex shaft to fit to accommodate the power of the 2030kv aquacraft motor we used in my district racing. I also had to carve the stock wooden motor mount so that my motor would fit due to its size and cooling jacket. I also had to add a 90 degree bracket to the right side sponson to allow me to mount a turnfin of my choice, which I used a aquacraft turnfin from a ul-1 superior hydro which I took of my current boat. How I mounted the bracket is I drilled through the sponson and epoxied in two pieces of brass tubing that was slightly longer then the thickness of the sponson where the bracket was going to be mounted so that when I tightened the mounting bolts it wouldn't squeeze the sponson it would squeeze the brass instead.
Now there is only one last modification that needs to be done. The "stinger" style strut that these currently come with is the wrong design for this type of hull. It should have a conventional style strut like I have included in the photos and the stuffing tube should be mounted flush with the bottom of the bottom ski. This will allow the rear end of the boat to ride higher in the water and stop the boat from hooking and flipping in the corner, which it did while I was testing twice.
So thebuildrc I want to thank you for the opportunity to test/tune/review these boats and here is my list that I want you to implement in your building these hulls and it will not only make these boats an awesome product but also a very affordable option for someone wanting to get into a outrigger style boat.
My list of items to fix:
1. Add 34.25mm or 1.348 in wide wedged ride pads to the bottom of the sponsons like I have in my photos to help the sponsons ride on top of the water instead of plow in. These ride pads are 4.54mm to 7.25mm wedged or .178 in to .285 in. Now I used wooden shim stock for like shimming a cabinet which I don't recommend you use due to the quality of wood. Its crap. I would rather you use something to match the quality of products your using to make your quality products now. But you need to make sure that you use my measurements for the wedge because its changing the angle of attack of the sponsons which helps with the handling and over all performance and takes it from 3.5 degrees angle of attack and changes it to 5 degrees angle of attack which is optimal for this boat.
2. Add a conventional style strut instead of the "stinger" style strut and include a 4.76mm flex cable so that the flex can handle almost any power system someone decides to put in these.
3. Mount the shaft log/stuffing tube flush with the ski to allow the rear end to ride higher in the water for handling purposes.
4. Add the 90 degree bracket to the sponsons so that the purchaser can mount a turnfin to the boat.
Keep up the great work. The quality of these products are amazing and I can't wait to test the new one you produce with these simple changes.
(end of review)